Fashion itens that triumphed after crisis

Article for @institutoriomoda blog | Original version in portuguese here

When we study the history of the last century, we will see that the greatest moments of crisis in civilization were also the greatest drivers of inventions and discoveries in the most diverse areas, including Fashion. Here are a number of fashion items that emerged from these troubled periods:

The First World War (1914-1918) brought us the zipper – after all, soldiers needed to dress as practically as possible – and the classic Trench Coat, a long waterproof coat with utilitarian pockets, originally created by the English brand Burberry. The use of this garment was so widespread by the military that it ended up being baptized as the “trench coat”.

With the majority of adult men fighting in the war, women were forced to enter the labor market and, consequently, needed less restrictive and more functional clothing that allowed greater mobility. It was at this time that the corset fell into disuse, giving way to the first bras.

Shortly after World War I, the world did not have a truce: the Spanish flu appeared, originated in the United States and reported mainly by the Spanish press, and spread across several continents, killing more than 50 million people. For the first time, the use of face masks and social isolation measures were adopted around the globe. It is also worth mentioning that, in Brazil, this pandemic was responsible for the creation of the SUS and even the caipirinha, a drink that is now a cultural heritage, but which at that time was publicized as a possible home remedy for the flu.

In the great economic recession of 1929, the number of lipstick sales soared. This phenomenon became known as “The Lipstick Effect” and proved that, even in times of crisis, people allow themselves small luxuries as a way to maintain their self-esteem and thus feel more prepared to face a difficult time.

Already during the Second World War (1939-1945), cosmetic inventions emerged, such as striped makeup for the legs, since the manufacture of pantyhose was interrupted and this item was considered essential in the women's wardrobe.

In addition, items such as the boots, created by Dr. Klaus Maertens, a German army medic who had injured his ankle and needed a more ergonomic boot. The footwear, whose aesthetic was inspired by the military style, then became an orthopedic product, being incorporated by fashion only in the 80s in the punk movement.

There were also sirens suits ("sirens suits"), a kind of comfortable and practical jumpsuit that could be quickly put on over pajamas in case there was a bombing or emergency situation and someone needed to run away from home in the middle of the night.

In addition, it is also worth mentioning the resilience of French fashion and haute couture during the German occupation. France was the world reference for fashion and “good taste”, and the German government did everything to seize its power of cultural influence.

In response, initiatives to reassert French fashion emerged, such as the Thêatre de la Haute Couture (a puppet theatrical show using mini haute couture pieces). Textile raw materials were in short supply and there was rationing of these materials for the population, who received limited tickets to buy fabrics and supplies. The length of clothing in general has been shortened. There was even a ban on hems, as clothes were so restricted. The solution was to be bold with hats: these became increasingly ornate and more opulent, including items such as flowers, foliage, fruit and even stuffed animals.

After the war, Christian Dior launched his iconic “New Look” in 1947, which resumed the hourglass silhouette and maximized the volume of the skirts, which now used around 7 meters of fabric in their production. In this way, the New Look symbolized overcoming difficult times of restriction and celebrating purchasing power, glamour, luxury and femininity. It was the style that defined women's clothing in the following decade, and also symbolized the return of women to the domestic sphere.

Advancing more than 70 years in history, we arrive at the present time marked by the coronavirus pandemic. We realize that we are going to have to adapt our lifestyle and clothing for a long time, until the vaccine comes along. Thus, the masks, which were a purely medical or safety item, began to be produced in the most varied colors and fabrics, being an extension of the look. Textile antiviral coverage, made up of particles of silver salt, hits the market and becomes one of the industry's biggest bets. Other clothing trends are also gaining strength, such as One Mile Wear and Atlheisure, that is, the incorporation of comfortable sports or loungewear pieces into casual wear.

Finally, it is worth mentioning the types of pieces that were most sold during the pandemic, according to the company Tecidos Kite: top pieces, after all, only they appear on the webcam and comfortable pieces and fabrics, such as sweatshirts, knits, knits and viscose.